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Beige Dusk Greys Founder Andrea Rogers on Finding Artistry in Formulation

Beige Dusk Greys is a delightful Etsy-hosted shop (and, in my opinion, one of the best on the wide-ranging platform) in which Dallas maker Andrea Rogers channels her creative powers and artistic talents to create two of her favorite things: handcrafted skincare products and fine paper goods.  An artisan with many talents, Ms. Rogers makes gorgeous stationery and parcel tags, but since I am skincare-obsessed, it was her skincare formulations that caught my eye.  I was searching Etsy shops for products with prickly pear seed oil and quickly found that–in a lovely blend with camellia seed oil, borage oil, jojoba oil, and house-infused fractionated coconut oil featuring nettle, rosemary, calendula, & thyme–and so much more in the Beige Dusk Greys shop.  Note:  many Beige Dusk Greys products contain coconut oil, but it is a special form that works well even on acne-prone skin.  Ms. Rogers is highly attuned to comedogenicity, so she uses fractionated coconut oil.  I am acne-prone and was initially nervous about applying anything with coconut oil–fractionated or not–but I was able to enjoy her formulations without any problems and feel totally comfortable recommending her line to others who deal with blemishes.

 

Andrea Rogers of Beige Dusk Greys

 

Ms. Rogers was exceptionally generous and gave me the opportunity to sample a true bundle of the skincare delights Beige Dusk Greys offers.  The shop is full of tempting formulations, but to get you started, here are some highlights.

 

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser

 

Beige Dusk Greys Green Tea Oil Cleanser ($16)-a light cleansing oil that easily rinses off cleanly, leaving skin fresh but not stripped and providing just the slightest hint of additional moisture.  The ingredients are nourishing, healing, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory, with the additional benefit of gentle antibacterial properties.  This is a great cleanser that effectively removes makeup yet never overdries; it leaves skin soft and smooth without any greasiness or heavy residue.  Green Tea Oil Cleanser is high-performance in terms of functionality and well-rounded benefits from its choice actives.  A very versatile product, this would work for all skin types, including acneic or sensitive.

Ingredients: Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Nettle, Green Tea, Chamomile, & Ginger Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower Seed Oil), Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, & Camellia Sinesnsis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract.

 

 

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner

 

Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner ($12)-a delicious, refreshing alcohol-free toner that has a naturally fragrant base of rose hydrosol with aloe juice for soothing hydration.  Along with antioxidant-rich rose, this toner also features Manuka honey extract (fantastic for hydration and healing) along with dynamic healing Royal Jelly (great for soothing nourishment, highly reparative).  The formula also includes gentle doses of lactic acid and Vitamin C to aid exfoliation and brightening; neither the is included at a level that would cause stinging or sensitivity, particularly when combined with the other soothing, moisturizing actives in the toner.  Unlike many toners that sting or burn sensitive skin, Beige Dusk Greys Honey & Rose Toner is calming and cooling.  This is a wonderful hydrator that feels soothing on contact, and it offers great benefits for dry or sensitive skin.

Ingredients: Rosa Demascena (Rose Otto) Flower Distillate, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Protein, Aloe barbadensis (Aloe), Manuka Honey Extract, Butylene Glycol, Vegetable Glycerin, Apis Mellifera (Royal Jelly) Extract, Gluconolacctone, Sodium Benzoate, PEG -7 Olivate (Olive Esters), Glycerin, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, L-ascorbic Acid, Didecoldimonium Chloride, & Rosa Damascena (Rose) Oil.

 

Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm

 

Beige Dusk Greys Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm ($24)a creamy, moisturizing balm that is perfect for nearly any skin type and divine for fussy or acne-prone types.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm has a light gel-oil sort of texture that sinks right in with only the lightest residue.  The lovely hue is thanks to soothing and gentle chamazulene, from both blue chamomile and blue tansy oils.  This along with beneficial actives like yarrow, indigo, and sacha inchi oil make this Balm a wonderful remedy for irritated and inflamed skin.  Indigo Concentrate Beauty Balm is a lovely product packed with beneficial, soothing ingredients that calm troubled skin.

Ingredients: Indigofera Tinctoria (Indigo) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Plukenetia Volubilis (Sacha Inchi) Seed Oil, Corylus Americana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Camellia Oleifera (Camellia) Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Achillea Millefolium (Yarrow) Infused Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (Fractionated Coconut Oil), Polyglycerol-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina), Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olive Oil (Olea Europaea), Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Tanacetum Annum (Blue Tansy) Essential Oil, & Chamomilla Recutita (Blue Chamomile) Flower Oil.

 

Now that I’ve piqued your interest with some of the lovely Beige Dusk Greys products, let’s meet the maker, Andrea Rogers!  Below is our interview.

 

What is the story behind how you became a formulator?

Andrea Rogers: In the spring of 2013 I started tinkering with some DIY recipes for a charcoal mask. I was having some hormonal acne breakouts and was trying anything I could to help it. I really enjoyed making the masks and started experimenting with serums and such and it kind of just grew from there. I was in grad school for 3 of those years, so it was my little hobby I guess you could say, on the side.

 

 How would you describe your beauty and skincare philosophies?

 Andrea Rogers: I think beauty and skincare is so individual that there isn’t a formula or solution that fits all. Because of that, I think that finding and curating a regime that works for you and makes you feel beautiful is important.

 

What are your biggest goals as a formulator/maker/founder?

 Andrea Rogers: My goals are to make an effective beautiful product. I’m an art person, so pretty things really inspire and move me. I don’t see why beauty products can’t do the same. In some ways, I view my products as functional accessories.

 

What are your favorite ingredients to work with, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Gosh, that a hard one. I love any beneficial botanicals I can infuse. I love playing with exotic oils, and really anything smelly, like essential oils.

 

What is your process for creating a new product?

 Andrea Rogers: Usually I come up with a concept, then find the necessary supporting ingredients and began with a basic recipe, and tweak it until it fits my liking. Sometimes though, I will find an ingredient that I love and build a recipe around that ingredient.

 

Are you self-taught?  Either way, how did you begin and what have you learned along the way?

 Andrea Rogers: I am self-taught. Really there’s so many excellent resources online. And I also have some books for reference. Practice is also an excellent way to learn. Once you know your materials well, it’s easier to predict what will happen. I have notebooks of notes I have taken along the way and that really helps.

 

What is your approach to preservation?

 Andrea Rogers: Preservation is obviously a must. I don’t use parabens and try and stay away from formaldehyde donors. I have a selection of preservatives that I use and I choose from there the most suitable for the product. I realize this is a touchy subject for some.

 

If you had to pick a favorite product or two from you line of which you are most proud, what would it (they) be, and why?

Andrea Rogers: Probably the watermelon & moringa face oil. It’s just so versatile and feels and smells so good.

 

How would you describe the experience you want people to have with your products?

Andrea Rogers:  I want people to experience the product as a beautiful object that helps make them feel beautiful.

 

What do you see as the greatest success of your line so far and what are your hopes for the future?

Andrea Rogers: The greatest success is when I have repeat customers that really love the products. I hope that I can continue to grow this business into something bigger and have fun along the way.

 

You first started experimenting with formulation when you were experiencing some hormonal acne breakouts a few years ago.  What did you ultimately find effective in treating this issue that impacts so many of us?

Andrea Rogers: Honestly, I learned not to over-dry my face.  When the issue is hormonal, topical products can only do so much. Typical acne products dried my skin out, and removing all the oil wasn’t conducive for balance or healing.  I have oily skin, but I’ve learned to embrace it rather than fighting it.

 

You started formulating during grad school days.  What were you studying?

Andrea Rogers: I was studying studio art. I’m a print maker. I just graduated in May 2016 from a 3-year program.  My Etsy shop had gained some momentum by that point, and now it has taken over most of my time. I spend close to 40 hours/week devoted to running the Etsy shop and formulating. It’s an issue of time management and finding time for studio art.

 

Can you describe how you moved from making your own skincare to starting your own line?

Andrea Rogers: It was primarily just a hobby at first—skincare and soap.  I had more soap than I could ever use, but there was something so rewarding and soothing about making it. Friends and family loved what I made. They started buying my products, and after a while I expanded to Etsy.  The whole transition happened over a few years.  I wasn’t trying to make money, really; I just wanted to support my addiction to formulating and playing with stuff.  I’ve always been a maker.  I love it; it gives me meaning.

 

What is your background in art, and how do you think that influences the way you formulate and the overall aesthetic of Beige Dusk Greys?

Andrea Rogers: Being a print maker, you’re very process-oriented, and theres a lot of problem solving involved. Formulation is also very process-driven.  They’re both very aesthetic as well.

 

You are self-taught as a formulator.  Many consumers want to better educate themselves. When it comes to learning about and understanding individual ingredients, what are your favorite resources that you recommend (whether books, databases, etc.)?

Andrea Rogers: There are a lot of forums online that I’ve found extremely valuable. Also, DIY websites are useful to get a base recipe for something. There’s a supplier database as well, UL Prospector, where I can find out about ingredients.  I spend a lot of time online researching; I’m a thirsty person for information.

In terms of the iterations until a product is satisfactory, it depends. Sometimes I can get it in a few tries. Other products I still haven’t released because I haven’t hit the sweet spot yet after many trials. I spend a good amount of time with products before I try to sell them.

 

Is Beige Dusk Greys a full-time operation for you?  How have you seen your business grow over the last few years, and do you ever find it difficult to keep up with consumer demand?

Andrea Rogers:  First, it was just a little here and there. When people started responding well to my products, I got more invested, and sales have slowly but steadily grown since then. I’ve learned a lot and grown along with the business.

 

If someone has your Green Tea Oil Cleanser, Green Cleanse Face Balm, and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator, how would you advise using each of them in terms of order, frequency, etc?

Andrea Rogers: For me, I like Face Balm at night for removing makeup. Green Tea Oil Cleanser and Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator are lighter and rinse off quickly, so they might be preferable for a time crunch or the morning.

 

I’m a huge fan of the Nopal Cleansing Exfoliator.  I’ve used so many exfoliators that are unnecessarily harsh and end up irritating skin rather than just gently exfoliating.  How did you manage to get this texture so perfect?   Tell us more about how you developed this.

Andrea Rogers: That took a bit of tweaking. You’d be surprised how much of the formula is actually clay; there’s a lot of body to it.  The smoothness to the texture comes from including the tiniest amount of olive-based wax. I didn’t want it to be too exfoliating, and the oils in the formula add a lubricating element so it’s not too abrasive.

 

I love both your Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil and the Plum Seed Face Oil.  Both are nourishing and hydrating yet miraculously do not break me out.  You also have another face oil called The Cure.  What do you see as the main differences between these three lovely face oils, and how would you advise someone to choose between them?

Andrea Rogers:  Plum Seed Face Oil is great for dry or mature skin. Watermelon & Moringa Face Oil is soothing with marshmallow extract and prickly pear, a good oil for anyone. Then there is The Cure, which has the lightest texture, but is is good for all skin types. I don’t formulate for a specific skin type. I try to formulate versatile products so it’s more a matter of preference. I’m not trying to cure something with my products, but in general I avoid comedogenic oils and ingredients, because there are so many great alternatives.

 

Your eye serum is so rich and luscious and extremely hydrating.  What key ingredients make it so effective for the delicate eye area?

Andrea Rogers: It’s probably the rosehip seed oil and the chia seed oil; the consistency of the final product was designed to be like an oily gel.

 

Can you tell us a little about your masks?

Andrea Rogers: I have a Pumpkin Enzyme Mask that uses pumpkin bioferment as a key ingredient. It’s designed to be a very gentle peel with the consistency of a light lotion. In fact, I designed it to be gentle enough that you can leave it on for anywhere from 10 minutes to overnight, depending on your preference.

The Honey Mask is an oily gel mask, and when I designed it, I wanted to avoid harsher, drying clay-based masks.

The Milk Jelly Mask is designed to be moisturizing and to feel good when you rinse it off.

 

What are your best sellers?

Andrea Rogers: Any of the face oils tend to be best sellers; when I formulate those, I want them to feel good, and there’s a variety for different preferences in terms of the texture from light to luxurious.  Also, the Face Balm is often a repeat order once people try it.

 

What’s the most surprising thing about running your business been so far?

Andrea Rogers: Right now I’m trying to get my line more established. Once I get that taken care of, and it’s getting there, I’m realizing that a lot of the work is not creating but actually running the business side of things.  In terms of getting more established, I haven’t started promoting Beige Dusk Greys much yet. People discover me and reach out, and it’s also been word of mouth.

There are so many people doing what I do that, for me, the investment is in repeat customers.  Between customer service (e.g., custom orders) and products, I’m focused on maintaining as much repeat business as possible.

There’s a rewarding aspect to it as well. Beige Dusk Greys is a way for me to celebrate a love for pretty things; I want the skincare to display nicely and, in a way, serve as functional accessories.  I think people are drawn to Beige Dusk Greys because they want to have things that are handmade and specific to them.

Melissa Davis:
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